February 1st. This morning the natives told me that the
rain had so exhausted and spoilt our provisions, that as the
country afforded none, it was necessary to return to the
Matukituki station to replenish; so, after the wind had dried
the bush, we started.
2nd. Retracing our steps towards Matukituki, which the
fresh in river rendered difficult.
3rd. Crossed the river to our old house in the Matukituki.
4th. Collected and made an oven of ti. The native Epikewati
had a dream, which foretold the death of his wife by drowning
while crossing the Kawatiri, and she took fright, crying and
wishing to return to Waimea, to which I gave consent readily,
but Epike would not agree.
5th. Rain nearly all day.
6th. Showery. Collected a little
fern-root.
7th. The weather seemed inclined to fair.
8th. All working at the fern-root.
9th. Getting fern-root.
10th. Raining all day. Repaired the
house.
11th. We had today one of the heaviest storms of thunder I
have ever seen, with a deluge of rain and a tremendous fresh
in the river.
12th. Showery all day.
13th. Moderately fine. Collecting wekas.
14th. Fine warm day.
15th. Seeking for wood to construct a raft, but found none
that would float.
16th. The day showery. Made an oven of the ti.
17th. Anniversary of the day Mr Fox was washed off his
footing, and had to swim the Matukituki with his load on his
back. Drying timber and constructing raft. The day dull and
showery. The fruit of the kotukutuku, called konini, is a
pleasant tasted berry, and is ripe about this month.
I am sorely disappointed in the appearance of the river
during a fresh. I expected something majestic, instead of
which I see nothing but .a dull dirty-looking stream, running
steadily along, with every now and then a large tree or
quantity of brushwood floating on its surface. The natives
tell me that the best time for working a canoe up or down the
river is during a high flood. .
18th. Placed our kits of provisions on raft, and again
crossed the river, and proceeded onwards. Fine day. In order
to cross the river we had to resort to a new method. The fresh
prevented us from fording, and we could not find enough timber
for a raft to carry us, and the river runs too rapidly to
admit of rafts crossing, so we made a small one on which we
placed all our clothes &c. The two fastest swimmers
attached a small flax-line to the raft, and commenced swimming
across; the remaining three swam behind, pushing the raft
forward with one hand. For this method you must choose a reach
of at least a mile long to cross the Buller when
swollen.
19th. Proceeded on our journey, and once again reached our
ana, or former sleeping-place, when to our sorrow we were
again visited with a deluge, and frightened to our old
shed.
20th. Repairing house. A rainy day.
21st. Moderately fine day. Nothing done.
22nd. Packed up our huge loads, mine consisting of a gun,.
seven pounds shot, eight pounds tobacco, two tomahawks, two
pair of boots, five shirts, four pair of trowsers, a rug, and
a blanket, besides at least thirty pounds of fern-root. We
made about two miles of very bad walking-granite rocks covered
with tutu and brushwood. A shower at night.
23rd. Showers of rain frightened us on. About one mile of
fearful walking to an ana, where we found dry but most
uncomfortable lodgings on an uneven surface of granite
rock.
24th. The appearance of the day was so far from fine, that
we mutually agreed to stay in our dry quarters on account of
our provisions, as fern-root once wet is spoiled, losing its
flavour and becoming mouldy.
25th. A shower of rain this morning prevented us from
starting until about midday, when we accomplished about one
mile, and encamped at an apparently good eel-station. My back
very very sore.
26th. We had a little better walking part of the day,
passing over about a mile of very good pine forest, but again
came to our black birch country-precipices and granite rocks.
I find in some parts of this at a fresh the river rises
upwards of thirty feet. I am getting so sick of this
exploring, the walking and the dietary both being so bad, that
were it not for the shame of the thing, I would return to the
more comfortable quarters of the Riwaka
Valley.
27th. Worse and worse walking, the rocks being more steep
and rugged, and covered with underbrush and quantities of
brier, the bush almost impassable from the quantity of dead
timber and moss. The evening showing for
rain.
28th. Built a bark house just in time to escape a heavy
thunderstorm. Raining at night.
March 1st. Morning fair. A heavy fresh in the river.
The day soon changed into a regular soaking wet day. Consumed
our last handful of flour to thicken a pot of
soup.
2nd. Steady, regular rain all day, with the wind
N.E.
3rd. Continued rain without any abatement until evening,
when the weather appeared inclined to clear. Diet, fern-root
served out in small quantities twice a day. This is without
exception the very worst country I have seen in New Zealand;
not a bird to be had or seen; and the few fish there are in
the river will not bite during rain or during a fresh. We
tried a species of the fern tree called kakote, but it is far
from palatable, and exceedingly
indigestible.
4th. Long showers of rain, with short intervals of
sunshine.
5th. The weather on the change, it is to be hoped, but not
fine enough to venture forward.
6th. Again made a start. One of the women so ill that Ekehu
and self had to share her load between us. We had the worst
walking I have yet seen, on the side of steep precipices
thickly covered with brier and underbrush.
Sunday,
7th. Passed the day in a black birch wood in company with
thousands of sand flies. I endeavoured to ascend a hill, but
found it so steep and rugged that I relinquished the attempt.
The banks of the river are so very perpendicular, that it is
impossible to reach the water's edge; and the rocks affording
no shelter for eels, we are badly off for provisions. I am
resolved to pass the day as a Sunday, although much against
the natives' wish. .
8th. Came along the river-bank about one-third of a mile,
which distance took at least two hours to accomplish-hands,
breech, knees, and feet being all actively employed. I do not
think ten paces of the whole distance were passed without
securing a good hand-hold. The river then became impassable,
and we had to ascend a ridge, which took the remainder of the
day. Slept on the summit of the hill, which we found very cold
lodgings. From this elevation I looked for a pass to the south
or east, but there is none observable. An opening or break in
the mountain range to the S.W. is observable, which I imagine
to be the Inakaiona (Inangahua) Oweka, or pass to the Mawera
(Grey R), from its position corresponding with the opening Mr
Heaphy and myself observed from the Arahura, and from the
description given me last year by the
natives.
9th. This morning I suffered, about two hours of the most
excruciating pain I ever experienced. The natives ascribed it
to the fern-root diet. Feeling better, we all started, and
walking a short distance along the summit, then descended a
spur to the river, where we put up for the night. I really
believe two or three miles is the utmost that could be
accomplished, under the most favourable circumstances, on
these short days in such a country. Large granite rocks heaped
confusedly together all over the surface, with a thick growth
of underbrush and briers, an immense quantity of dead and
rotten timber, and all these on the steep and broken
declivities of a range of high mountains, interspersed with
perpendicular walls of rocks, precipices, and deep ravines,
form a combination of difficulties which must be encountered
to be adequately understood or allowed for.
10th. The illness, I fear, is catching, for this morning my
female companions declared their inability to proceed. I
believe it is a species of influenza; however, be it what it
may, they tried a novel kind of cure, cutting themselves all
about the painful parts with a sharp stone, and then bathing
in the river. We caught enough eels for a meal, and hope for
better luck on the morrow.
11th. Natives worse instead of better, but we managed to
accomplish about a quarter of a mile to a fresh
eel-station.
12th. The illness of one of the women has settled in her
leg, and she can only bring her toe to the ground. A dirty,
showery day, and we lay under the nominal shelter of a large
birch tree.
13th. Contrary to my experience on all previous days, the
natives packed up for a start during a shower of rain, and we
came on about half a mile, when it began to pour down, and the
sick woman was not within hail, so Ekehu had to return and
seek her, while Epike and self erected a shelter of the fern
tree. Ekehu and wife arrived just at dark, and the wind,
changing its quarter, blew a gale, driving the rain and smoke
of our fire under our shelter. We all passed a most miserable
night, not having room either to lie down or sit up, and the
woman moaning with pain.
14th. Increased our shelter, which, but for the wind and
rain, would be comparatively comfortable. Our fern-root almost
exhausted, and no food to be found.
15th. Proposed starting, but the natives refused, stating
that the woman could not accomplish above half a mile a day;
that the weather showed for rain, and that it was too much
work building houses at such short distances. Showery.
.
16th. I suppose the same arguments serve for today, as we
are here still, and I am tired of urging our onward progress,
for I only breed discontent, and do not carry my point; so I
am determined, come what may, to become passive in urging them
forward, although I do not relish gradual starvation on one
meal of fern-root in twenty-four hours. I am afraid to quarrel
with the natives, for I am told to look out for myself if I
choose, and they will do the same.
17th. No alteration in the appearance of the weather, or
any apparent abatement of the illness of the native woman, yet
they prepared for a start; so we all packed up, and, I think,
managed to pass over rather a long mile of ground, and camped.
Caught a meal of eels. The woman did not arrive until about
midnight. I begin to fear her illness will cause us many days
hunger, if not real starvation, and I will not hear of the
natives' suggestion of leaving her to her
fate.
18th. Rain drives us on about a quarter of a
mile. 19th. Under shelter all day. Heavy
rain.
20th. Continual rain.
21st. Rain continuing, dietary shorter, strength
decreasing, spirits failing, prospects
fearful.
22nd. A slight change in the weather, but none among us
except for the worse.
23rd. Again made a start, and completed a fair day's work.
The walking and general appearance of the country the same as
usual. A shower of rain at sunset, and another about the
middle of the night, did not add to our comfort. The only
interesting part of my trip on the banks of the Buller is from
the Rotuiti to the Matukituki valley, which I had formerly
travelled in the company of Mr Fox. After leaving the
Matukituki, the river is quite worthless, and offers no room
for a journal, saving many days' hunger, the danger of
crossing its tributary streams, and the apparently
interminable labour of making our way through so frightful a
country, and in continual heavy rains.
24th. Bad news; Epike taken ill, and not able to move
about. A very heavy shower about midday.
25th. I had again the pleasure of proceeding onward, and
came to an overhanging rock, which offered shelter against the
rain which was falling in torrents. We had curious lodging
here, each one having to look for his own. As it happened, we
all managed to find a shelter of some sort. Mine was under and
between some granite rocks, and my bed-place fitted me
something similar to a badly-made coffin, but harder and
colder.
26th. Heavy rain all day. Broke our fast on a species of
fungus found on the rotten trees, called by the natives arore.
27th. No alteration in the weather, or anything
else.
Sunday, 28th. Moderately fine, but we adhered to our
resolution of not travelling on a Sunday.
29th. Hunger, bad lodging, and want of firewood, drove us
onward about a mile through a heavy rain. We erected a nominal
shelter with my blanket near a large pile of driftwood, by
igniting which we managed partly to re-dry our clothes, also
to allay our hunger.
30th. Today, instead of coming down in drops, the rain fell
in a regular sheet of water. All hands busily employed in
keeping in a spark of fire. Everything about us soaking wet.
Finished my stock of sugar and tea, and I felt I was fast
losing all my English diet.