March 1st. This morning while the natives were packing away their fish and other things, I counted fifty-four eels, each averaging, I should say, three pounds in weight, and making a heavy load for three of us to carry. I was obliged to take the heaviest, to keep good humour amongst them, and to be enabled to laugh at them when they complained of being tired. We proceeded about four miles; when Ekehu found a good eel station, and nothing could induce him to pass it. Leaving him to fish, we progressed half a mile further, and came to an open tract of country, consisting of grass, manuka, toitoi, &c. We walked about three miles more, keeping to the bed and banks of the river, when a fall of rain gave us the trouble of erecting a temporary shelter.

2nd. This morning I lighted a fire on the plain, and the wind changing, drove it down upon us, which burnt our shelter, but the day proved fine, so we cared not. Walked about a mile to the termination of the grass plain, and again took to the banks and bed of the river, which recommenced its course between the black birch. Proceeded three miles farther, and awaited the arrival of Ekehu.

3rd. Accomplished a distance of about six miles, which, from the weight of our loads, and the quantity of dead timber in the river, was a hard day's walk. The valley now is fast' narrowing, and I hope another day's march will take us to the foot of the mountain range, for I am anxious to ascend, and see something of my whereabouts.

4th. This morning it commenced raining, and we all set to work to erect a shelter, when we were com­pelled to resort to the black birch bark for a covering. In the middle of the night the wari separated just over my sleeping-quarters, which gave me a most uncomfortable night's lodging. Rain all night.

5th and 6th. Rain.

7th. The day proved fine enough to induce us to leave our lodgings and proceed. After taking the bed of the river for about two miles, we deserted the main stream, and took to a branch bearing East, which we ascended about one mile. Here we resolved to abandon the river altogether, and take to the low range that skirted the southern bank, which we ascended, and walked ..along the ridge about three miles, when we discerned a large river, distant about two miles. We agreed to make a push, and endeavour to spend the night on its banks, which we reached just at nightfall, when the thunder, that had been following us all day, now overtook us, and we had to erect a shelter by the light of our fire.

On the hills bounding the Grey river I caught four kakapos, or green ground-parrots. They are beautiful birds in plumage; but as they have been fully described by skilful naturalists, I refrain from doing so.

1 Inangahua.

8th. On looking about this morning, we found this to be the Oweka1, a river flowing into the Buller. Spent the day exploring and bird catching.

The pass from this branch of the Grey to the Oweka is very easy, and has only one ascent, and that not at all difficult; the descent also is very easy; the bush is open, and free of roots, and the inclination is very slight. A communication from river to river, even for a cart, might be made by simply clearing away the underbrush.

9th. Started to cross the valley, taking a course East, and found it to be about three miles deep. Came to the rising ground, which we ascended, and slept on the side of the mountain. Fine.

10th. Reached the summit of the hill this evening, and found it covered with low fern, &c. It commands a fine view of the interior of the island; and I could discern mountains which I had known at the Roturoa, on the river Buller, and on the West Coast. The morning was too foggy to admit of seeing the lowland.

11th. Being a fine clear day, I could see from this place1 the large grass plain of Port Cooper, which appears to commence from the high mountains in a series of grass hills. The hill I have ascended is :very steep and high, and bad walking owing to the dead timber and loose stones; but the natives tell me their pass over this range is low and easy, and only takes one day from river to river, that is from the lake to the river Waimakariti (Waimakariri), flowing to the East Coast; and that it then takes a week's travelling on the grass plain before reaching the sea-shore. I am told that some natives, four years ago, crossed the island in seventeen days.

I much wished to descend to the grass plain, and try and reach the East Coast, but the natives, one and all refused, and told me that I had kept them already far too long away from Nelson, and that the payment I had promised them was too little for what they had previously done. Even on a promise of further compen­sation they still refused-so I was obliged, reluctantly, to abandon my desire, and return to the Nelson.

From this summit elevation I was able to look back upon the route I had been travelling for the last six weeks. I was now standing on the further or eastern extremity of the large opening. I had seen from the coast; and which I then thought, and now found to be, the southern extremity of the Inakaiona valley. Looking towards the coast, at my feet was the lnakaiona or Oweka river flowing northward through the valley to the Buller, and appearing to rise a long way to the southward, perhaps in the neighbourhood of the upper lake of the Grey, receiving in its course all the tributary streams on the east, coming from the reverse slopes of the mountain ranges at my back, lying between me and the Roturoa. Across the valley, here about fifteen miles wide, I looked upon the mountains of the coast, gradually melting down into the open country at their base, which I had just traversed, and contributing their numerous streams to swell the waters of the Grey, whose branches were only divided from those of the Oweka, flowing in an exactly contrary direction, by one ridge of inconsider­able elevation. To my left, at forty or fifty miles distance, arose the snowy ranges of the Southern Alps, with the white-capped peak of the Kaimatau (Mount Rolleston) towering conspicuously among them. Filling up the interval, were the low undulating forest-clad hills, in which both the Grey and the Oweka take their rise, whilst behind them stretched the grass plains of the eastern coast.

12th. The natives were not willing to spend. the day on the summit of the hill, and refused to follow my course to reach the Matukituki valley, saying, that if I did not return to the river we had left they would, for we should be all starved if we ventured to take a short cut through a black birch country; so I was compelled to descend the hill by nearly the same route I had ascended it. Fine.

I did not want to follow the circuitous course of the river, but to steer a compass course towards the Matukituki valley, or the Roturoa; but the natives told me that the river was the only place where provi­sions, or rather food, could be obtained, so I had to return to its banks. 13th. Reached the bank of the river, and camped about a mile below where we first made it. Fine.

14th. The natives hearing numerous cries of the weka during last night, wished to stop here, to which I assented, having agaifi hurt my weak anele, which was giving me much pain. The river here is very pretty, flowing between two narrow grassy banks, behind which the wood commences, consisting of stately pines of all kinds - kauri, kaikatea, remu, totara, and the matai, with here and there a large birch, altogether forming a beautiful variety of foliage. During the day the natives caught twenty-seven wekas, and I treated my dog to a whole one for his supper.

The weka, or wood-hen, is the most useful and valuable bird to a bush-ranger, and in the months of May, June, and July, when they feed on the berry of the karamu, they get very fat, and attain to a great size, and are easily captured by anyone who can imitate their cry; for, when they hear their cry, they will answer and approach, and then are very easily caught by a small flax snare tied to a short small stick; but I have taken them with my hands only by shaking a katuhituhi, or robin, before them. They are very pugnacious, and will fly at a bunch of feathers, or a red rag.

15th. I was surprised, on waking in the morning, to find a fresh in the river, having had but little rain'

yesterday. We however made a start, and walked a mile down the bank of the river, when the natives found a spot they fancied for eel fishing, and wanted to stop. I got angry, and urged the necessity of pro­ceeding, stating we had enough provisions, and were losing fine weather; so they agreed to come, and I again mounted my load, and went on, but on looking back, I saw the wahine still at the eel station, and when I remonstrated, only got laughed at; so I was forced to laugh too, for I find there is nothing like good temper in dealing with these natives-besides, I doubt if it would really answer to quarrel with them in these wilds, and so far from a settlement. Fine.

16th. The game-list for yesterday stood as follows: twenty_one wekas, two young Paradise ducks, one grey duck, two dab-chicks, two sparrow-hawks, and three eels. What we are to do. with all these I do not know, for eating them while sweet is impossible, and we have no means of keeping them unless we stop and make an air-tight bag of totara bark, which I object to on account of the delay. There is some difference between the stock of provisions I now have, and my dietary in the month of May last year. Such is a bush life, full of feasts and fasts.

After the fog had risen, we commenced our day's march, and after travelling five miles down the shingle on the banks of the river, we came to a moderately­ sized stream flowing from the S.E., the appearance of which caused me to leave my load, and take a short trip up its banks. It had a very inviting appearance, and having ascended rather more than a mile, I came to a large patch of land, consisting of fern, grass, &c., of perhaps 12,000 or 14,000 acres in extent, and belted by a forest of fine large pines, which also covered a large extent of level land. Returned to my load, and proce'eded forwards, taking the shingle of the river, and after a walk of four or five miles we camped. After arranging our sleeping quarters, and eating our supper, Ekehu caught eleven wekas, all within sight of our camp.

Ekehu found a kaka's nest at this place, on the top of a large birch tree, which he ascended by an ingenious method, He cut and tied together several long light poles, at the end of which he secured a short crooked stick, by which he was enabled to hang from branch to branch, and thus ascend the butt easily, and return with four young birds, which we tried to keep alive.

I believe if vye had provisions spoiling for want of eating, and had loads under which we could scarcely stagger, nothing would induce Ekehu to pass a weka, or remain at the fire if there was the chance of an eel in the river, so great is his natural love of destruc­tion. Last night I pressed on him to forbear fishing, but no-he must be off, and return with twenty eels.

17th. Another fine day, and again on our way, still keeping to the banks of the river. The river is now rapidly increasing in size, from the drainage of the surrounding country.

18th. Proceeded about five miles, when the appear­ance of the day induced us to stop and erect a shelter in a fine manuka grove, using the bark of the trees for thatch, which is very watertight, and quickly obtained; but the frame must be made very high, from its combustible nature.

19th. Wet day, and sand flies very troublesome.

20th. Accomplished four miles down the shingle, the country appearing of about the same character, namely, a large tract of very fine timber land on either bank of the stream, when we came to a part of the river shut in between two low cliffs of a kind of lime­stone, but level on the surface, and still covered with pines: these cliffs lasted nearly three miles. Proceeded two miles past them, and camped, the rain of yesterday rendering it difficult to cross.

21st. This morning we had to take a most formid­able ford, but managed to cross safely, with the exception of wetting Epike's load. We then proceeded nearly two miles, when Ekehu, after taking another awkward ford, in ascending the bank, missed his footing, and fell into a hole over head and ears, which caused us to stop and kindle a fire to dry his kit. When all was right again, we made another start, and proceeded about 'two more miles, when we stopped, and erected a shelter against the falling rain. A by­stander would have laughed, if in comfortable lodgings himself, to have watched us in erecting our shelter by firelight. Having constructed our framework, the thatch, or covering, was the difficulty, each seeking for enough to cover his own sleeping-place;, and as we discovered, or rather felt a dearth of fitting materials, we would snatch up a fire-brand and brave the storm for another handful of grass, toitoi, or any other accessible material-so that about midnight we could call our covering water-tight for a bush house.

March is the most difficult month in the year to ford rivers, owing to the growth of a slippery kind of moss on the- surface of all the stones that form the beds of the rivers. I found it easier to take the deep water than the shallows in this month.

Tried a new species of fruit, the berry of the moko, and found it very palatable when you have obtained the proper knowledge of eating them. You must gauge your mouth so that your teeth will only crush the berry without breaking the seed, which has a most nauseous, bitter taste.

22nd. A fresh in the river, and the unpleasant drip of the bush, with a plentiful supply of provisions, were sufficient excuses for remaining under our comfortable shelter.

23rd. Fine. After crossing the river five times breast high, for the sake of getting shingle walking, we came to a reach of the river, looking down which we could discover the country of the Buller, and my companions were off at a canter to try which would be first to make the river. On arriving, we found it to be much swollen. We walked about seven miles during the day. The appearance of the country the same as before, with the exception of soapstone forming the bed of the river instead of shingle.

24th. Again on my way for Nelson-at least I think so, as I am now retracing my steps on the banks of the Buller, the only change being that I am on the southern bank. Made a -moderate day's walk. Found a kaka's nest with five young birds.

25th. Moved forwards at a good pace, and accomp­lished three days of our outward journey on the other bank in two days.

26th. Last night took a draught with our net, and caught about fifty upukororo.

27th. Accomplished a distance of about three miles of, I believe, the worst walking to be found in New Zealand, and two miles rather better. By nightfall we reached a small fern patch, where we had to erect a shelter by firelight. Rain at night.

28th. Rain.

29th. Made a start, and proceeded at a gallant pace until we came to our former fearful descent of the 5th of April of last year, when we had to ascend a steep hill, which took us the remainder of the day.

30th. Very bad walking, the immense granite rocks that belt the river defying us to follow its course, and the mountains too high to ascend, so our day's travell­ing was one continual climbing up the spurs and descending into the water-courses. This labour en­abled us to make only a short distance by night, which unfortunately threatened rain.

31st. As predicted, just as we were turning in under our blankets last night the rain poured down, but we managed to find squatting room under a large dead tree that was blown down, and keep tolerably dry until morning, when we built a shelter.

April 1st. Fearfully heavy rain, with gusts of wind, which drove the rain through and under our shelter, and gave us all a thorough wet soaking. Luckily, Ekehu caught enough eels to last us two days with moderation.

2nd. Continuation of rain, and a fresh in the river.

3rd. Rain continuing to fall in torrents. About midday there came a stream pouring from the cliffs under which we were, and through the shelter which we had been working at all day to make comfortable, erecting mud fences, &c. The fresh also increased so much, that the natives declared we must find some means to ascend the cliff, or we should be all carried away; so we made a sort of ladder, and managed to clamber up about twenty feet to another ledge in the rocks. The bush here prevented us from moving backwards or forwards, but we contrived to draw up enough of our old shed to erect a shelter against the wind, for against the rain it was impossible, as the thatch we had barely kept our kits dry, and we had to brave the rain until the morning, when we erected a straddle bedstead, -as the uneven surface of the granite prevented us from lying down.

4th. Made our shed habitable. Rain continuing. This was truly a fearful day to spend on a cliff in a black birch forest. The rain poured down, loosening the stones of which the hill was formed, which came rolling by us, and plunged into the river with a tremen­dous noise; and the wind tore up the trees on all sides, causing a simultaneous shudder among all the party when we heard their crash.

We managed our dietary during the last rain without encroaching upon our stock of provisions, there being sowthistle at hand, which we ate at every meal. When I left Nelson, Mr Heaphy smiled at my stock of pepper, from its quantity and bulk; but, were he here, he would find it a great relish to his sowthistle, etc. On inspecting our stock, I found that I had nearly one pound left - some proof of my economy in the consumption of the luxuries of this life. I would recommend anyone to take a good quantity who may be bound to the bush. Ekehu's kaka died, leaving only nine alive to mourn the fate of their brother, and I fear they will die also. My last pair of unmentionables are now brought into active use.

5th. An increase in the gale, both of wind and rain, and the fresh in the river exceeding all bounds, which has risen forty feet perpendicular. God only knows when we shall be able to proceed; for to ascend is impossible, and we can move nowhere until the flood subsides.

6th. Showery, with heavy rain at night.

7th. What after so much rain may be called a fine day; and should the morrow be fine, I hope to be once more moving. The fresh rapidly going down.

8th. The fresh having a little subsided during the night we managed to get a short way along the cliffs, and then ascend a monstrous hill, that is, for steepness, but we kept on all day, scarcely allowing time for breathing, and by dusk reached the river's edge past the range of cliffs, where we camped.

9th. The weather is determined to try our constitu­tions, for soon after rolling our blankets round us last night it commenced raining heavily, and con­tinued all night, so that by morning we were all soaking wet through. We then commenced building a shelter, but the rain ceasing, we moved on about a mile to a shingle beach; where we spread our kits to dry.

10th. This long rain caused so great a flood in the river that we consumed all our dried fish, and were not able to catch any more; and as there were no birds in the bush, I told the natives we must push on, although it was raining, and endeavour to get a supper, which we did out of a fern tree. Made a good day's march.

11th. Again progressing, and making for Nelson, but our walking was slow, owing to Epike's lameness. The fresh still presented an obstacle to eel fishing; and we could now find room for some of our surplus provisions on the Oweka. Bad lodging on a granite rock, without firewood, and, what was worse, no supper.

12th. Two hours before daylight the rain again began to fall, and continued in small showers all day; but having no breakfast, we had no alternative but to brave the storm and seek one. After walking about four miles we came to a small patch of sand, when we saw the upukororo re-ascending the river from the flood; and having no provisions, we camped, and made our kupenga all right, when we set to work to fish for breakfast. We took 15 fish during the day. There being no material for erecting a shelter, we had to hoist our blankets for a shed, but found a year's bushing had made a sad alteration in their waterproof qualities.

13th. Continued at our station fishing. Caught about the same number as yesterday, which we dried for our onward use.

14th. After packing our fish we started, and made a good day's journey on a bad road. Showers.

15th. During the night I lost the entire use of my side, and in the morning I could not move. Although I had never before been any hindrance to the natives, always carrying my share of the loads, and helping to get firewood, &c., I had the mortification of hearing one of them, Epike, propose to Ekehu to proceed and leave me, urging that I appeared too ill to recover soon, if ever, and that it was a place devoid of food; but Ekehu refused to leave me, and Epike and wife started forward by themselves. I received great kind­ness from Ekehu and his wife for the week I was compelled to remain here; the woman kindly attending me, and Ekehu working hard to obtain food for us all, always pressing me to take the best, and frequently telling me he would never return to Nelson without I could accompany him. We had a slight shower during the day, but Ekehu built a shelter over me which protected me from the weather.

16th. Self ill, Ekehu went eel fishing, to try me with some fresh food.

17th and 18th. Rain.

19th. Fine. Ekehu went searching for food, our supply of fish being spoilt, and returned with nothing but two or three thrushes, and a fern tree.

20th and 21st. I was able to move about, but with some pain.

22nd. Although I could only stand on one leg, I resolved to try and proceed, Ekehu having scoured

the country round without finding anything eatable, within reach, and he would not leave me for a night ; so he carried our bedclothes forward, and then came for me partly carrying, partly leading me along.

23rd. I was able to proceed, though with difficulty, by the aid of a stick and Ekehu's hand.

24th. It was with great difficulty I could move at all today, but want of provisions compelled me. Found two fern trees, and made an oven.

25th. About midday we overtook Epike and wife, who had been clearing the country of all birds before us. I was unable to proceed without a helping hand, or to carry my load. Rain.

26th. Reached a stream flowing from the southwards, called by the natives Muri-ira (Maruia). It is opposite to our cave and former return station to Matukituki (Matakitaki). We tried to ford the stream, but found it too deep and rapid. Rain.

There is some considerable quantity of good forest land on the banks of the Muri-ira, and the natives told me that there is a grass plain at its source, to which they formerly resorted in search of the kakapo, or green parrot. The route they took was over the hills of the Oweka. The Ngaitau natives told me that before the introduction of the potato they lived chiefly on the kakapos, which were numerous on the moun­tains of this island, but are now nearly extinct.

27th Finding no materials to form a raft, we were obliged to ascend the stream in search of a ford. We kept walking all day, and found many likely spots, but on trying them they were all too deep. Rain.

28th. After ascending the river four miles further, we came to a division of the stream caused by an island (At Keyes Creek), with a short shingle reach on either bank. Up to this point, it had been confined between large rocks. Here we ventured to cross, all holding one stick, and reached the other side in safety, having had to swim part of the way over, and of course thoroughly wetting our clothes, &c., which took some time to dry, as it kept raining all day, and being in a pine forest we could find nothing for a shed. We however managed to find firewood in plenty, and having a very wet night we all sat round the fire under the shelter of our native mats, but the rain and cold made us very uncomfortable. We had empty stomachs also, being without supper; nor had we anything for a breakfast.

29th. The day consumed in retracing our steps on the other banks of the river towards the Buller. Fine.

Sunday 30th. Ekehu said that hunger was no Sabbath keeper, so we proceeded, and reached the banks of the Buller, where we slept. Rain.

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