May 1st. Collected fern-root, and caught some wekas, after reaching our old shelter at Matukituki, which we found standing.

2nd and 3rd. Collected fern-root, and caught some wekas. Made an oven of the roots of the ti.

4th and 5th. Still at our station. Heavy rain.

6th. Fine, but a heavy fresh in the river.

7th. I am again feeling much pain in my side, and am unable to use it. My eye and hand also much affected.

8th. Finding I was unable to move, Epike and wife went off seeking wood-hens. Ekehu with me.

9th and l0th. Collecting fern-root. Rain.

11th Ekehu built a new house, our old one _being neither wind nor water-tight. Epike returned. He is a greedy old fellow, and I should have been better, and have had better fare, without him. In this instance, although we afterwards saw the feathers of many birds, yet he returned with only one poor one, and told me it was all he could get, and that he purposely saved it for me. I found it best never to quarrel with him, so I took the bird, and thanked him.

12th. A heavy fall of snow all day.

13th. Moved into our new house, which we found both warmer and drier. The fresh in the river caused Ekehu to remove to higher ground. The old house, built here by him some years ago, was washed away, showing that the flood had risen higher than it had done for many years.

14th. I am still without the use of my side, which gives me pain on a change of weather.

15th. Ekehu collecting ti roots. The river is much swollen, and even if I were able, I doubt if I could progress, owing to the snow. I was also taken ill with a violent retching, which lasted all day and night, and my side gave me much pain. I attribute it to the bad living and the cold weather, both clothes and food being very scanty.

We left here all our old clothes (none of which I had previously tJ1rown away, reserving them for patches), my pot, two specimens of greenstone­one about sixteen inches long and six broad by one thick, and considered valuable by the natives, the other smaller-some pieces of mica slate, a stone for polishing the greenstone (with which I had found means to amuse myself on wet days), three good nets, and many small things, which Ekehu secured. Both he and Epike told me that they intended returning here. They cleared, during our stay, a piece of land; on which they planted about 15° potatoes, brought by us from the Mawera, and a quantity of Swede turnips and native greens. They have each runaway wives, and are afraid of returning amongst the natives from the fear of losing them, and of going back to their "'former servitude, both being the slaves of E Iti, the chief at Motueka.

16th, 17th, and 18th. Fine, but very cold. Ekehu clearing for his potato garden.

19th. This morning Epike and wife started for Nelson, but I refused to proceed from inability. Ekehu and wife went out to search for food, so I was left alone during the day. Ekehu returned in the evening, and said he was anxious to proceed, and I told him I would try in the morning.

20th. I resolved to make the attempt, and we packed up, leaving all we could behind us, as I was unable to carry anything. We reached the Tutaki, and ascended about a mile to a ford, which we crossed over, when we found Epike bird catching. We gave him some berries in exchange for some wekas, and had a good supper.

21st. After proceeding a short distance the rain obliged us to halt, and build a shelter.

22nd. Reached the end of the valley, and camped. A slight fall of snow or small rain all day. We sought the shelter of a large totara tree for the night.

23rd. This morning we found a kohaha tree, the berries of which the natives are very fond of. This delayed us some time. Proceeded a short distance, and camped on the banks of the Tiraumea. Wet night.

24th. Our clothes being wet from last night's rain, we proceeded to the shelter of last year-an over­hanging rock, which protected us from the rain. Dried our clothes, and spent the day here. A small basket of mine, which was hung to the roof of our rock to dry, fell down during the night on the fire, and was burnt, by which I lost all my sketches, several skins of birds, some curiosities, and some memoranda, the loss of which may cause my journal to seem incomplete in many places.

25th. We came on a short distance, and I:}uilt a shelter against the rain or snow, which seems to fall here every day towards evening during the winter months.

26th. This morning we started, although it was raining hard, and reached our former wari at the Tiraumea towards evening.

27th, 28th, and 29th. Rain. Our shelter far from watertight, and our bed­clothes saturated with the drip.

30th. Finer, but an immense fresh in the river. The natives went in search of food, our provisions being exhausted. Ekehu made a waterproof covering of manuka bark, which allowed him to venture out in spite of the rain.

31st. The natives went off today to collect the fern-root which they found yesterday. Cold day.

June 1st. Fine. The rain that fell last night prevents us from moving onwards.

2nd. We made a start this morning, and found the river so cold, that, after pro­ceeding a short way, we left Epike and wife behind, as they were cramped with the cold. Came to within a short distance of the wood, and camped. Very cold, and no fire.

3rd. After waiting some time for the coming up of Epike, we proceeded, and reached our former sleeping-place at the junction of a small stream from the hills.

4th. This morning Epike and wife arrived, having been all night on the hills. They had lost their way, and had had neither sleep nor food since we left them. Made a short distance and camped.

5th. We reached the Roturoa lake soon after midday, and found the canoe there safe. Slept at our station amongst the manuka.

6th. Launched our canoe and crossed the lake.

7th. This morning we were obliged to erect a shelter against the rain. We had two sheds made of . black birch, one of which fell down on my lame side while I was lying by the fire, and hurt me much.

8th. A fresh in the lake had floated our canoe half across before it was seen. Ekehu's wife volunteered to swim for it, which she did, and paddled it back to the shore. After hauling it up safe, we went forwards, and camped on the Puhawini range, but passed a very rainy night, which soaked everything, and kept us sitting up and shivering.

9th. Reached the river Puhawini, or Howard, and built a shelter which we much needed.

10th. Rain and snow, and a fresh in the river.

11th Walked about a mile to our former station, where we had erected a wari. Searched the country around for food, but found none, and the river too deep to wade.

12th. Reached our old quarters where I, with Mr Fox, left our flour, and stopped there, the Rotuiti river preventing progress. I saw six sheep here, and the tracks of a large flock, which much astonished me, as there was no station here when I formerly passed this way. A slight fall of snow all day.

13th. This morning we with much difficulty crossed the Rotuiti. Saw some hundreds of sheep feeding on the grass here, but no recent shoe or foot-marks; so, having no provisions, I was afraid of exploring for the station or road, but made the best of my way towards the hill which I had formerly twice travelled over, and consequently knew the track. Fine night.

14th. Reached the junction of the Mokipiko and Maipo rivers, where we slept. Ekehu caught twenty fine wekas during the day-so we can all once more enjoy a full meal.

15th. Reached the old survey station on the Moki­piko, and found it fallen down. Ekehu and his wife much wanted to stop here, as Epike and wife were behind, but the rain coming on, I told Ekehu I should push forward and endeavour to spend the night at Fraser's, or at all events on the other side of the Motueka. When I mentioned tea, sugar, and bread, the woman agreed to follow me ; so I pushed ahead to prevent hearing the grumbling of Ekehu about sore feet, which, after dark, were sorely pricked by the ground-thorn. We reached Fraser's about ten o'clock at night, whom we found in bed, but he soon arose, and gave me a hearty welcome, and the luxury of a taste of good tobacco.

So, thank God,' I am once more among civilized men, of which I have had many doubts during my illness, and this preyed much on my mind. It is a period of nearly five hundred and fifty days from the time I wished Fraser goodbye, on the banks of the river Rotuiti, and my seeing him again at his house, during which time I have never heard a word of English, save the broken jargon of Ekehu and the echo of my own voice; and I rather felt astonished that I could both understand and speak English as well as ever. There have been many wet days when I have not spoken a word all day.

Having traced the banks of the Buller from source to mouth, and returned by the Grey and Inakaiona valley, I am certain there is no accessible pass across the island north of the latter place, or any route from the Nelson settlement that could be taken to the grass plains at Port Cooper, excepting that along the coast from the Wairau.

I have not attempted to lay down the course of my journey, nor even the distance I have passed over, as I felt it impossible to do so with any regard to accuracy. Starting as I did on a purely amateur trip, single­handed, and having everything to carry myself, I could take no instruments, save a single compass and a sextant, which were soon spoilt by the wet ­so that I found it impossible to take any bearings on a crooked river, or in a black birch country; and I decline to assert anything which may hereafter be found incorrect. Being also unacquainted with geology, I am unable to give any description of the country. I only went to assure myself of the description of country in the middle and west of the island; to explore the country would require more than one person of greater knowledge, and also much more capital than I had at my command.

I am, however, sure there is nothing on the West Coast worth incurring the expense of exploring, but certainly think the natives there require something to be done for them. They are quiet, and do no harm, and ought to have some share of the attention that is paid to the natives who are amongst the white population. They have all books, both Bibles and Prayer-books, but their condition would be much improved by giving them a few good axes, and some other tools, as also some nails, of which they are very fond, and know the value. They are much cleaner in their habits than the natives in the settlements, and they have better houses-most of them having chim­neys, and also bedsteads, or rather a raised floor on which they sleep. I trust something will be done for their welfare, in which I take great interest. It would be a very trifling expense to convey a few things to the Kawatiri, from whence the natives themselves would gladly distribute them down the coast. The introduction of goats would much benefit them, and ultimately ourselves.

I believe anyone taking the trouble to read my imperfectly kept journal would consider much time has been lost, and many unnecessary delays had taken place, but I, from experience, can assure the reader to the contrary; and I affirm none can form an estimate of the many difficulties I had to encounter from the want of means, and being thrown quite on the mercy of the natives; and I consider I have accomplished a great work in having traced the only two large rivers of the West Coast from source to mouth, and main­tained myself for eighteen months on the natural productions of this island.

I am sorry I lost my sketches, for, though no artist, they were faithful delineations, and would have illustrated, much better than I can describe, the surface of the country I have seen and passed over. Any distance, or estimates of quantities of land I have made are as correct as my judgment (from having been on the Nelson survey-staff) could describe them. I found my native Ekehu of much use-invaluable indeed, but the other three rather an encumbrance ­I could have made better progress without them; but to Ekehu I owe my life-he is a faithful and attached servant.

Other Sources of Information on Thomas Brunner

A summary of Brunner's work in W. G. McClymont's The Exploration of New Zealand (1940),

Maori history traced by G. G. Mitchell in Maori Place Names in Buller County (1948).

Royal Geographical Society (1850) Volume XX, pages 344-378.

Nelson Examiner, 30th September-21st October, 1848,

New Zealand Journal 1849

New Zealand Spectator 25th October­ 8th November, 1848

Great Britain Parliamentary Papers relating to New Zealand for 1850

A manuscript, discovered by Dr F. A. Bett of Nelson, in which Brunner made a Synopsis of his West Coast journeys - this is in the Alexander Turnbull Library, Wellington.

Contact Us - Guide to NZ Fishing - Angling Reports - FAQ's Rates - Accommodation - Location Map - References - Rental Cars